Monday, July 2 – Pont Aberglaslyn to Barmouth

The weather today, like the other days so far, was dull and cloudy. The forecast today was ‘slight winds, some rain, visibility dull’. Over breakfast it started raining and glorious visions came to me of capes and sou’westers. At 10am we started, and the rain ended. After a stop in the village we soon got into our stride, but the Pass of Aberglaslyn stopped us. Who wouldn’t stop and stare at such rare scenery? The entrance to the pass is spoiled by the presence of a railway, which, fortunately, enters a tunnel here and re-appears beyond the pass. I was here one Saturday last Easter, therefore I knew the road. This was the first time for my companions, and they were delighted with it. We dawdled away ten minutes away on the old bridge by the Hotel, where a notice to the effect that water was sold here, attracted our attention.

WHR 'Garrett' 143 in the Aberglaslyn Pass, Wales.

At last, tearing ourselves away, we started on our journey. The railway, as usual, spoils a great amount of country and the heaps of slag become an eyesore. At Twn-Lan it left us and we rejoiced in our freedom. The road near Garreg is not of great beauty, and our pace was quickened as we scudded along. Passing two other tourists we walked the steep hill to Penrhyndeudraeth. On remounting I discovered my rear tyre had deflated, and a subsequent examination revealed a big cut in the nearly new tyre. This was soon repaired and ten minutes later we crossed the Ffestiniog toy railway and scooted down through Penrhyndeudraeth. Paying a toll, we crossed the squalid looking bridge by the explosive works and over the River Dwyryd to Llandecwyn. The hills gave way to pleasant woods, and the road was all that could be desired.

Away to the West, the veil over the hills had lifted, showing us, amongst others, the triple peaks of Yr Eifi (The Rivals). Gliding through the pretty and historical village of Talsarnauwe came to Eisingrug. Now we were climbing steadily with a continuous view of Harlech Castle before us, and a little while later we reached the old place. Lunch was taken at the Commercial Hotel and after a walk round the town, we took the road again.

The sea below us at Llanfair made a glorious picture, and away over the bay we could see Criccieth and Pwllheli. Swooping downhill we reached Llanbedr where I wanted to turn towards the hills for the Roman Steps, but I was ruled out (as usual). Continuing through Llanenddwyn and Llanddwywe to Tal-y-Bont, we sped along the narrow winding road to Llanaber and Barmouth for 3pm. Here were my parents, also on holiday, and we decided to stay the night. Before tea we had an adventurous hour boating on the Mawddach, and after tea we climbed a spur of Llawr Llech to 2,000ft, where we gained a wonderful view of the Mawddach Estuary.

25 miles, riding time 4 hours