We learn about the ‘Sleeping Bard’ from George Borrow of all people, and the Red Robbers of Mawddwy, on this interesting road looping through the real heart of Wales. The target was the ‘Pass of the Cross’, or to give it its proper name, Bwlch-y-Groes. Rising over 1000 feet in one mile, you can work out for yourself that the average uphill gradient is around 1 in 5, even steeper in places. Meeting and talking to an interesting couple on holiday made Charlie’s day, leaving him dreaming of those mountains again.