Tuesday, July 3 – Arthog and Penmaenpool

This morning spelt rain, and thus a discussion, the outcome of which was that we should have another day at Barmouth.  I wanted to climb Cader Idris, but the mist was too thick according to others.  They appealed to my parents who just caught me as I was starting out.  I gave it up.  [The reader should know that whilst living at home, this 19 year old was not allowed to start out when it was raining hard!].  Taking the ferry, four of us – including my Father – crossed the bar to Penrhyn. We discovered nothing of interest, so we decided to wait for the ferry boat as the walk round via Fairbourne would have taken two hours.  The rain came down in increased volume, the ferry wasn’t running and the quay was deserted.  Together we shouted and waved our handkerchiefs until quite a decent crowd had gathered.

Just as we were giving up a rowing boat pulled out from Barmouth and came across to us.  The occupant had a hard struggle both ways, and he thoroughly deserved the double fare.  He had heard us shouting from his house behind the town!  Anyway, we came in for many curious glances as we strolled back to our ‘digs’.  After dinner they all went to the pictures, and I, not being agreeable, took a boat out for an hour in the Mawddach, afterwards exploring the terraced walks behind the main street.  After tea we decided on a run to the Waterfall at Arthog.  Crossing the long railway bridge by the pedestrian pathway we took the Dogellau road out of the railway station, and by a wonderful well-wooded route we came to a notice bearing the words ‘To Waterfalls and Roman Forts, Admission 6d’.  Leaving the bikes, we took a path which bore us to the Falls.  We had thought we were escaping the entrance fee, but up came a gent with a huge roll of tickets and demanded 6d each.  After a lot of wrangling we paid up.

The Falls are a series of beautiful cascades, set amidst a glorious blending of wood and rock.  After the morning rain they had swollen to a wonderful roaring, glistening mass of water.  We stayed here for a considerable time.  Soon a terrific row about tomorrow’s route took place, and for a time nought could be heard for the lash of tongues and angry protestations.  When things had quietened down, I suggested a walk to the Roman Forts, but they turned the idea down, so, by another route we reached the bikes and pedalled off towards Penmaenpool.  The road climbs at first, then goes past some hideous slate quarries, then down again through beautiful woods until, two miles from Dolgellau, it crosses the River Mawddach at Penmaenpool.  Then back to Barmouth on the other side of the river, completed the finest circuit in Wales.

14 miles, 2.5 hours



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  1. Pingback: Drama in the Rain | Charlie Chadwick

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